The Intriguing Tale of Mbah Priok’s Tomb: A Corner of Jakarta’s Political Landscape

The Battle for Mbah Priok’s Tomb: A Story of Politics, Religion, and Resilience in Jakarta

As governor Basuki Tjahaja Purnama (Ahok) faced off against Islamist opponents in Jakarta’s recent election campaign, a remarkable story emerged from the city’s harbour precinct. The tale of Mbah Priok’s tomb, a small holy grave nestled among the industrial landscape of the Koja Container Terminal, sheds light on the intricate and paradoxical politics of religion in Indonesia.

The saga began two decades ago when the Jakarta government claimed the cemetery as ‘crown land’ and cleared thousands of graves, including that of Mbah Priok, a saintly Muslim missionary. The Haddad family, custodians of the tomb, initially acquiesced but seized an opportunity to reclaim the land following President Soeharto’s fall from power in 1998.

Despite a court ruling in favor of the government and the terminal’s managers, the Haddad family defiantly rebuilt on the site, drawing crowds of pilgrims and sparking a violent confrontation with authorities in 2010. The Islamic Defenders Front (FPI) led the defense of the tomb, showcasing a complex interplay of religious, political, and historical factors.

Fast forward to the present, and the tomb has become a focal point of religious tourism and cultural heritage, with Governor Ahok pledging support for its expansion. The site’s inclusive nature challenges religious sectarianism and highlights Java’s tradition of saint veneration, which transcends religious boundaries.

The story of Mbah Priok’s tomb serves as a microcosm of Indonesia’s complex and evolving political landscape, where issues of religion, heritage, and power intersect in unexpected ways. It underscores the resilience of local communities in the face of adversity and the potential for cultural sites to bridge divides and foster unity in a diverse society.